A French Wine Adventure is one of the best reasons to visit here. Not the only one bien sur, but certainly, at least in my book “first among equals.” The other equals being food, natural beauty, History, and that other essential “big H” – Hospitality.

As I ranted previously IN THIS POST, one of the great “Treasures Of France” – is the existence of “Cave Co-operatives.” These assocations of local growers,happily ubiquitous in this fair land, give wine lovers the rarest of treats. The chance to taste (and, bien sur, BUY!) great wine that is not regulated by the official A.O.C. system.

Thus under no obligation to restrict their wines to specified varities/quantities, the Cave Co-operative can choose (and blend if it so desires) the best grapes. Giving the wine lover a truly unique French Wine Adventure. A wine that, although not “A.O.C” – truly is a reflection of the place from which it comes. (“Terroir” is how the French describe it.) I just call it “Great Value!”

Another flavor of Adventure in discovering French Wine is to actually join the locals in picking those grapes. As I detailed in THIS POST, you’ll not only meet  the French locals, but the “locals” from all over Europe who travel to participate in this yearly French Wine ritual. Be prepared to  bend over a lot, eat a lot, and, naturally, drink a lot !

The third option is , to be slightly redundant, my “first among equals.” Gliding down the French Country backroads. Caressed by sunshine(often) and soft breezes. (“le mistral” notwithstanding) Pausing at every possibility of a new discovery. However tiny and fleeting.

Sometimes, I even film my French Wine Adventure to share it with you.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

Irish Gourmet Chows Down In France. Yes, dear reader, a shocking headline to say the least. What connection you may well ask does Irish food have with anything gourmet?

The short, and honest answer, is, bien sur, none. But since my last post dealt with an Irishman’s contribution to the French Cognac industy, I thought it might be groovy, fab, far out, wild, weird, wacky, gear, cool, sweet, and maybe even instructive to share the ramblings of an Irish Resturant reviewer chowing down in France.

A gentlemen with the very un-Irish name of Paolo Tullio.

His gastromic ramblings appeared in – (what else?) – The Irish Edition of the UK ‘s Independant:

“As an Irish restaurant reviewer, getting to eat in great French restaurants is important for me, as these are the restaurants that set world standards.

It’s a way for me to calibrate my palate, so that I have a touchstone for judging meals here. It’s hugely expensive, but as an occasional exercise it can be excused.

We started our three-day odyssey with a meal in one of the great French restaurants, Le Louis XV in Monaco. This is Alain Ducasse’s flagship restaurant and is the holder of three Michelin stars.

It’s in the Hotel de Paris, which is opposite Monte Carlo’s famous casino. It’s probably true to say that this little corner of Monaco is the most architecturally pleasing part of this tiny state.

Turn right after entering the ornate, Baroque lobby of the hotel and you find the entrance to Le Louis XV. It’s a huge dining room, perhaps 30ft high, decorated with vast amounts of gilt.

Huge pilasters faced in banded agate and topped in Ionic capitols line the walls, Baccarat chandeliers and sconces light the room,

Arcadian murals delight the eye and a small army of waiters dance attendance.

The first thing you notice, other than the splendour of the room, is the immaculate tailoring of the waiters’ suits, making your own look like a poor man’s hand-me-down.

A vast epergne, perhaps three-metres high, dominates the middle of the room, serving as a centrepiece and a rallying point for the trolleys. There are a lot of trolleys, all built as though to last for centuries, made out of mahogany and brass.

The first one you meet is the bread trolley, which resembles a bakery shop on wheels. There are maybe 20 different breads to choose from in a bewildering variety of shapes and grains.

Not being the host, I got a guest menu — that’s one with no prices — but I know that most dishes cost about €90.

With the menus came the champagne trolley, which offered a large choice of champagnes by the glass to start the meal. My two pals had a glass each, one of the Bollinger Grande Annee 2002, and one of the Taittinger rosé 2004.

From the menu we chose the Provençal starter plate, scallops, and truffle gnocchi for starters, and then my friends ordered the duck — which is a dish for two — while I ordered the Pyrenean lamb.

For our wines we ordered the Chateau de Bellet, which is a red wine made near Nice, and a Bandol, Chateau Pibarnon, a crisp white made from the Rolle grape, known in Italy as the Vermentino.

I won’t describe the food in detail, but I will say that each dish was consummately well done.

They weren’t mean with the truffles, either — a waiter grated an entire black truffle on to my dish of gnocchi.

I liked the way the duck was served for the main course. It arrived in a covered marmite and it was deftly dismembered at the table by the waiter, who then served the breast and took away the legs, as they do in the Tour d’Argent, only to return with them a little while later de-boned and served in a small ramekin.

We didn’t have a dessert, just a little cheese, which also came on a trolley. It wasn’t the last trolley, either, as we also wanted one camomile and sage tea.

There’s another trolley that looks like a shrubbery on wheels, where maybe 30 different herbs are stacked in pots. The tea is made at the table, snipping the relevant herbs into a teapot and then adding the boiling water.

The closest we got to a dessert was dessert wine — a glass of Sauternes 2001 and a glass of Malvasia di Lipari 2006, a wine I last had on the island of Lipari itself.”

Bottom Line : Anyone can rise to Gourmetdom when presented with the right grub.

Thrill to more of Mr. Tullio’s gastronomic adventures HERE.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

French Cognac From Ireland. Yes, dear reader, it’s true. The fact that Cognac, while not from Ireland, owes it’s fame, popularity and world-wide notariety to Ireland. Specifically to Blarney land’s Richard Hennessy who left the Emerald Isle to join the army of Louis XV.

He was stationed in the southwestern town of…(you’re ahead of me already aren’t you?)….Cognac.

Naturally, appreciating all things alcoholic, he sent some of the local brew back home to his buds.

Soon after, Mr. Hennessey had a thriving business. Which continues to this day. Sadly, without him. Except(pun intended) “in spirit.”

More of the Hennessey Cognac connection from Reuter’s Barbara Lewis:

“For visitors to the region, discovering the secrets of its famous double-distilled spirit aged in oak casks is essential to the Cognac experience, but there are other charms.

Following are some tips from a correspondent with local knowledge.

DAY ONE

From Paris, Cognac is a roughly three-hour train journey via Angouleme, around 20 miles from Cognac. You might want to hire a car either from Angouleme, to cut out the slow-train section, or on arrival in Cognac.

From Cognac station, it’s a brisk walk or a short drive to the old town centre.

10:30 a.m. – Drop off your bags and restore yourself with a coffee and perhaps a “pain au chocolate”, known as a “chocolatine” in the Cognacais strain of French.

The Cognacais themselves are affectionately nicknamed cagouillards after the juicy snails that patrol the vineyards.

The main square Place Francois I, named after the French Renaissance king born in Cognac, has a cluster of cafes. It also houses the grand, newly restored Hotel Francois I and a statue of the mighty monarch on horseback.

11 a.m. – Walk down the cobbled streets to the sleepy Charente, the river once used to ship Cognac. Some of the main cognac houses, Hennessy included, line the banks.

Take your pick of which one or ones you would like to visit.

Hennessy has a state-of-the-art visitor centre and throws in a short boat trip, Remy Martin offers a train ride and Otard is housed in the chateau, where Francois I was born at the end of the 15th-century.

All give seductive accounts of the rich history and romance woven around one of France’s most prized products.

France’s luxury conglomerates now dominate ownership, but generations after they were founded, members of the original families still work in the cognac houses and are proud, aristocratic ambassadors of their brands.

They can narrate how “appellation controlee” cognac, which according to strict French laws, can only be produced from the Cognac growing area, owes its taste to the “terroir” and to age-old traditions.

The freshly harvested grapes are distilled not once, but twice in gleaming copper alembics to extract the very soul of the wine – “eau-de-vie” (water of life).

This clear, intensely alcoholic spirit is then aged for long years – which lowers the alcoholic degree, gives flavor and the distinctive cognac color.

Aged eau-de-vie can be sold as vintage cognacs. More usually, a selection is blended by the “maitre de chai”, or chief-taster, the most revered of the cognac house employees.

The oldest and most valuable eaux-de-vie are locked away in an area of the cellars referred to as the “paradis” or paradise.

As they age, heady fumes escape, which the Cognacais call “la part des anges” (the angels’ share). In the hot summer months, the smell hangs heavy in the air.

Tours, which can be booked in advance, end with a degustation (tasting) and a trip to the gift shop, where the finest, most beautifully packaged cognacs sell for hundreds of euros.

1 p.m. – Lunch options include a picnic on the river bank or a snack in one of the many cafes along the cobbled streets.

2 p.m. – As you mooch around, you might take a look at Saint Leger church, at the junction of the two main pedestrian streets. Dating back to the 12th century, it is in the Romanesque style characteristic of the region, and has a massive, arched doorway.

3 p.m. – Drive or take the train to Saintes to discover a refreshingly different town. If Cognac is about old money, discretion and let’s face it, a certain snobbery, Saintes has a more diverse, younger vibe, but, founded by the Romans, has ancient credentials.

Roman remains are scattered near the river and at the top of the town is a spectacular Roman amphitheatre.

6 p.m. – Head back to Cognac in time for an aperitif. Cognac houses have heavily promoted cognac, not just as the classic digestif, but as an aperitif, served with tonic water and ice. If that’s too shocking, pineau des Charentes, made by adding grape juice to eau-de-vie is an alternative.

8 p.m. – Cognac’s restaurants range from pizzerias to top-end dining. Regional specialties include chevre chaud (goat’s cheese on toast) and mouclade, mussels cooked in a creamy, wine sauce. An affordable option is La Courtine in the Parc Francois I, popular with locals. For balmy evenings, it has a terrace.”

Bottom Line: France owes more than it knows to the Irish!

Read more HERE.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin?

French Country Life  - is it for you? I mean – Really for you? Short Answer: Depends on how close it needs to match your dreams of Life in the French Countryside.

Now, don’t get me wrong – dreams are good. Dreams are healthy. As you well know – I’m here because I had a dream of living in the French countryside. And I put that dream into action.

That’s the key. Whether you action is as simple as getting accurate information. That’s action. That’s outside the fantasy zone. And that’s where you want to be.

Where you don’t want to be – is making any life changing decisions without : a)experiencing your dream location in a howling snow-filled gale in the dead of winter.(the ultimate test of your heating system) (b) getting to know some of the locals (c) hipping yourself to the labyrinth of laws that govern things as miniscule as what color your can paint your dream villa, etc.

If your dream is for the DEEP south of France - ie – le cote d’azur (uh….that would be Nice, Cannes, etc?) you could probably pass on point (a)

OK – so now that you’re (hopefully) a little more “in the know” and (again, hopefully) in the mood for some French Country Life experience……

Here ya go!

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?

While my non-French readers are aware that the first round of Presidential elections kick off this coming Sunday, there is a disturbing (to say the least) “back story” here which, to my knowledge, has not reached the “Outside World.”

It is a (true) story of monumental deception, collusion, hypocrisy, betrayal, abuse,assassination, death and political manouevering. One that has implications for the people of every Western “Democracy.”

I’ve been preparing to bring it to your attention. But I discovered another journalist who beat me to it. His name is Joe Quinn.

And while the first few sentences of his report will seem like some  wacko”conspiracy theory” –  stick with him. Because what he reveals(quoting sources) is not theory, but fact. The cold, very hard kind.

Warning : Joe’s reportage is not a quick read. But it  is an important one. As in – “read it more than once.”

Sorry I couldn’t bring you a sunshine-filled happy adventure this time.

Now - HERE’S JOE

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

Absolutely. Positively. China Buys Bordeaux. Chateaus. Bordeaux wine. And, hey – why not – Bordeaux property.

There is a good reason for this. In a sentence : Bordeaux Winos need the money. And money, as we are all to aware is democratic and non-judgemental.

Money doesn’t give a rat’s ass about color, ethnicity, social position, family background, life acheivements and/or fortune in Men’s eyes.

Thus, with Bordeaux Wine sales in the basement of French Wine sales at the moment, any money is welcome. It just happens to be Chinese Money.

This state of liquid affairs is not new. The Chinese are regular investors in all types of French enterprises. Likewise the Japanese. Proprietors not only of Chateaus, but a major insurance company or two.

The reason is a variation on the “grass is greener over there” theme. While China and Japan are nuts about anything Western – they go POSTAL over France. Likewise the other Asian nations – who this year gobbled up a major production of Languedoc Roussillon’s production.

So – only natural they should continue to fuel their obsession by “buying in” to their dream destination.

The China Daily’s Yang Cheng has the details:

“A regional branch of Chinese investment firm CITIC broke ground last month on a wine production base in Shandong province in a joint venture with Domaines Barons de Rothschild, parent company of the Bordeaux region’s renowned Chateau Lafite.

The initial investment in the base has hit 100 million yuan ($15.87 million). The company hopes to build on the momentum of its brand Lafite, which has been thriving in China. Within the country, the combined trading volume of faked and genuine Lafite is estimated to be between 2 million and 3 million bottles annually.

Last year, China’s largest trader of grains and edible oils COFCO announced it had bought Chateau Viaud, a 20-hectare estate in Bordeaux, and expects it to yield 100 tons of wine every year.

The company’s wine business is growing 15 percent every year, Wu Fei, COFCO wine president, said.
“This is only an element of our global roadmap, following our trail in Chile. More deals may happen in South Africa, the US, Australia and much more,” an insider noted.

Dynamic approach

Discussing the company’s foray overseas, wine expert Li Demei said that better operations and marketing for the wine products are vital to getting faster and sounder returns for the investors.
Japanese-based beverage producer Suntory bought Chateaus of Lagrange and Byechevelle in Bordeaux, and through better marketing channels it has made the two brands popular and cemented a foothold in Asia.”

Read More HERE

THROW ME A BONE HERE,PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

In my LAST POST, and the PREVIOUS ONE, the subject was French Biodynamic Wine. And so, as I seem to be(unintentionally) “on a roll” – this time around its the French Bio Wine Film Story.

And it’s about time. We hear and read much about the growing transformation of more and more French vineyards to the gospel of Bio. Good start. But to get the “natural be better” message out to the public at large – what better way than a film? Preferably one BY a French Wino.

Guillaume(that’s plain ole “Bill” in English)Bodin is that Wino. Although not(as far as I know) a practising winemaker, the young (25 years and counting) Mr. Bodin was reared in and around the vines.

His desire to give a wider voice to Biodynamic methods resulted in his Citizen Kane – “Wine – The Green Revolution”. (Coming soon to a theatre near you!)

The energetic M. Bodin(and how can you be otherwise at 25?) completely financed the shooting of the film. And, though I can’t say definitively, it appears He was also cameraman, sound technican, grip and tea boy. (Been there Done that. Got the tee-shirt!)

Having won awards at several film festivals( the excited states included) “Wine - The Green Revolution” has a good chance of showing up on your local screen anytime now.

Until then, here’s the trailer:

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?

It’s not just Aquitane winos that are jumping on the Organic/Bio bandwagon, some French Chablis Winos are going Bio too…

COURGIS, FRANCE —
On a damp Monday morning in March, only the distant rattle of a tractor breaks the silence. A suspicious pair of eyes monitors a visiting car’s progress down the Grande Rue Nicolas Droin; in these parts, even the dogs can pick out Paris license plates.

But Courgis (population 260) is home to two of the most forward-thinking producers of Chablis, whose vineyards surround Courgis and several neighboring villages. Thomas Pico, of Domaine Pattes Loup, and Alice and Olivier de Moor, of their eponymous winery, are making Chablis of startling quality, using natural, ecologically friendly methods that many of their peers long ago abandoned.

Innovation is not always good for wine, especially when vineyard work is replaced with laboratory science. This is what happened during an earlier leap forward in Chablis, in the second half of the previous century.

From 1945, when there were less than 500 hectares of Chablis vines, the vineyard area expanded tenfold by the end of the century. Growth was fueled by demand in export markets, where the name of Chablis, like that of its near neighbor Champagne, became a catch-all term — in this case for dry white wine of any origin.

Trade agreements and legal action have mostly ended these practices, though it is still possible to stumble across absurdities like “California Blush Chablis.” Talk about fake wine.

Yet some of the damage to the image and the terroir of Chablis was self-inflicted. In order to meet international demand, the growers embraced the use of herbicides, pesticides and grape-picking machines with a fervor rarely seen in other French wine regions. Production soared but quality often suffered.

“In my grandparents’ time everyone harvested by hand,” Mr. Pico said. “Now everyone finishes at five and is in front of the television by eight. A way of life has disappeared.”

Not entirely. Chablis is home to another pair of producers, Jean-Marie Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat, who have long been critics’ favorites. Their wines are old-school icons, but unless you have considerable patience you might struggle to understand what the fuss is about — or even to find them.

More consistently appealing, I think, are the wines of another long-established Chablis estate, William Fèvre. This is perhaps the greatest landowner in Chablis, with vines in all seven of the appellation’s grand-cru vineyards. Tasting Fèvre’s Les Clos from a good year is a memorable experience.

Chablis can do the classics. What it seemed to lack until recently, however, was a certain type of hip new producer, like those who have reinvigorated other French wine regions, among them the Loire Valley, the Rhône Valley and the heartland of Burgundy — the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, about an hour’s drive south of Chablis. In these areas, upstarts or outsiders have been making wine that sometimes challenges the powers that be and prompts everyone to question long-held assumptions.

Enter Mr. Pico and the de Moors. Along with a few other up-and-coming producers based elsewhere in the region, including Patrick Piuze, a French-Canadian, and several outfits with local roots, including Domaines Oudin, Domaine Servin and Gilbert Picq, they have brought a fresh spirit to Chablis.

Mr. Pico is not exactly an outsider; his father, too, is a vigneron. After studying oenology and working with producers in the Côte de Beaune, he decided to set up a separate winemaking operation, using some of the vineyards from the family estate. His first vintage was 2006.

Mr. Pico switched to organic cultivation, then went a step further with the application of biodynamic principles, under which growers try to create a healthy ecosystem for the vines — helping them to help themselves. He harvests by hand, which is still an anomaly in Chablis.

“I could earn a lot more money if I did mechanical harvesting, if I used pesticides and herbicides,” Mr. Pico said. “I could even take a vacation. But I like my work.”

Reprinted from the New York Times. The rest of the story is CONTINUED HERE

EPILOGUE

The Chablis Vignerons are just one example of the current renaissance in French Wines. Which, in it’s simplest form, is a return to the natural pesticide free methods of their Grandfathers.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

Yes, I know – “Top French Wine Goes Bio” is not a new headline. Biodynamic Viticulture , at least in the context of a “Top Wine” has been on the scene at least since 1984 when Nicolas Joly converted his Coulee de Serrant holding to biodynamic principles.

What IS news is that  Chateau Guiraud, a producer of Sauternes Grand Cru’s has just been awarded Bio-Dynamic certification . The first of the Bordeaux regions Sauternes to be so awarded.

But the allocades didn’t come overnight. (suprise, suprise!) The long road that led to recognition of Chateau Guiraund’s biodynamic excellence began more than 15 years ago when vigneron Xavier Planty(now is that a great last name for a winegrower or what?) disgusted with chemically based viticulture decided to experiment with organic growing.

One of the major catalysts for this decision was the death of a close friend two years earlier. A vignernon who had spent his entire life working in the fields with chemicals. He died of cancer.

With the advice of an agricultral engineer, and more setbacks than victories, Xavier Planty perserved. And with the consistent philosophy of treating the soil with respect – not chemicals the transformation continued.

“Biodynamics” – a concept of life force energy and balances, originated from Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner. It was his writings, in particular that inspired Nicolas Joly to “go Bio.”

However, since then, although Biodynamics involves precise actions with specific organic materials at equally specific times – such as planting by Moon phases and the application of diluted animal manures – every chemical free French farmer (wine or otherwise) proudly describe their produce as “Bio.”

Bottom Line: Not clear on the concept!

Although it’s the first Bordeaux Grand Cru to be biodynamically certified, Chateau Guiraund was beaten to the Winey punch by a Saint Emilion Grand Cru – Chateau Fonroque – that received the biodynamic baptisim in 2006.

In addition to the enhanced quality of his Wine, the complete elimination of pesticides (since 2004) and the relative ease of disease control (mildew be gone!) – Xavier Planty delights in the resurgence of insect life resulting from the rejuvinated soil.

For example, most conventional (chemically based) vineyards have fewer than 200 varities of insects. The latest Chateau Guiraund insect census revealed no less than 635 different varities.

To continue this biodiversity – allowing more insects to florish and feed on vineyard pests – Planty has established 3.7 miles (6KM) of hedges on his property.

While Planty’s certification will most certainly inspire other vignerons to “go bio”, the Aquatine region has some catching up to do in the Bio Wine sweepstakes. it’s currently number 3. Behind the leaders, Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence-Alps-Cote-D’azur.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

(Authors Note : Part One  and Two  could be instructive)

By Early September it was clear the Indians were not going to let us have their Summer. Fall was prancing impatiently in the wings. And Michelle and I were too far apart.She visiting friends in the mountains, and I scrambling after French sunbeams before they began to imitate their Scots’ cousins. Despite the best efforts of two medium sized minds and two large hearts, the road to re-unification had not yet appeared. Because, as the Tao reminds : “The way that can be described, is not the way.” And thus, it was the way that could not be described(let alone imagined) that did the trick.

Here’s how : I was confirming a reservation at a Bordeaux chateau. The Manager, a Woman, asked : “When will you and your assistant be arriving?” Having never previously mentioned an assistant, I did, dear reader, in that instant, see a red carpet being unfurled. “Well…….uh……would Friday be convenient?” “Impeccable.” She replied. Then, with that classic French combination of assumption and discretion added : “ Zo…….
Ze double bed wheel be ok for you?……….yes? “Absolutement.”
“Parfait” She purred.

And, it was perfect. Three perfect, very pampered days. The chateau was cozy, medium sized. The staff, friendly, non-snob professionals. Our large room had huge windows opening out to the inner courtyard with a view of the vines beyond. The food was equal in quality to Michelle’s kitchen. The wine list, slightly larger. While I filmed, Michelle read in the garden. Otherwise, We frolicked through the countryside. Savouring each other. In a location to be savoured.

But the hard part was not leaving the chateau. It was leaving Michelle at the chateau. I had an early train in Bordeaux Monday morning. Even tho’ I was quieter than Marcel Marceau, Michelle stirred. We clutched fiercely. Part of Me stayed with her. A part I did’nt miss until ten or so KM’s hence.

My guitar. Gee, no wonder my back felt so much lighter! I phoned the hotel. “No problem, Monsieur. We make sure She take it.”

The next weekend, when I returned to “The Little House on the Freeway”, Michelle teased me :” Maybe eat ees a good idea I keep ze gee-tar………zo you will always come back.” Many a true word spoken in jest. I never came back. (Were’nt ready for that, were ya?) Here’s why : With Winter approaching in one of the most expensive parts of France, with virtually no savings, no foreseeable income, and no legal right to work, I needed a quiet, inexpensive winter rental to work on “the film.” Unlikely, and improbable as it seemed – the miracle did occur. After Months of searching.

It was the classic “friend of a friend” (of Michelle’s) who saved my bacon.The challenge was the distance. Ninety Kilometres away. Too far/cold in Winter on a bike. And tho’ Michelle would have offered to come to me, that would’nt have been a good long term solution.

However, nothing, no matter how difficult, is impossible with a shared vision. And that, dear reader, was the deal breaker. We did’nt share the same vision. Michelle saw romance. Carefree, joyous weekends and trips with the exotic stranger from the far away lands. I saw Love. As in, I sleep with you, wake up with you, eat with you, massage you, comfort you, and love you twenty four/seven. Not knowing what to do, I did nothing. And, bien sur, soon, I had nothing.

In the song “My Way” Mr. Sinatra philosophized : “ Regrets…………I’ve had a few.”Amen, Frank. Amen.

THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’!