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Famous French Pie – Part Two
The French Country Travel Life Pie – Part Two – may be best appreciated by first thrilling to PART ONE.
He was smiling. Not a polite but slightly apprehensive smile. But a totally genuine and relaxed one. As if I was an old pal who had unexpectedly dropped by.
Before I could even finish my brief “here’s why I’m knocking on your door on a dark rainy night’ rant, Jean ushered me in.
His equally hospitable wife, Chantal didn’t ask the obvious question. (That being “Have you eaten?”) but immediately seated me at the dinner table and began reheating the remains. While Jean poured me a very welcome glass of his wine. And we got to know each other.
I was suprised to learn, in contrast to most vinerons, that both Jean and Chantal were Agicultural Engineers. This education and attitude was reflected in the International nature of the books and newspapers I saw in their living room. Chantal corresponded with several people in Eastern Europe, helping them learn French. (Her origin is Polish) and Jean frequently hosted students and inspiring winos from lands even more exotic than mine. Bottom line: They lived in the country. But were plugged into the World and helping people.
Morning’s light confirmed that “Domain Tatin” was not your classic “Little Farm on the Prairie.” Like most wine makers, Jean and Chantal are on the “wine tourism” trail. And so have a Gite.
This for me, was the mother of all Gites. Seperate from their house, but at right angles to it, the Gite comprises a main floor/living room(bigger than their own) with a fireplace, plus a second floor with (didn’t count ’em) 5 or 6 rooms each with two beds.
Below this, a bar/tasting room, which opens up onto a “salle de reception.” (think school cafeteria.) With long retangular tables at the ready for whatever wine-related occasion.
In addition to tourism and their vineyards, the Tatins also have some-non wine crops. All of this necessitating a permanent staff of 5 or 6 people. To maximize time and efforts, Jean has as 3 or 4 “beat up old cars” with keys always in the ignition. So, when every someone needs to get from a to b, they just hop in the nearest “efficient transportation.”
As you would expect from modern farmer, Jean is plugged into the tech marvels that (sometimes) make life easier. Once, riding with him as he organized workers on his iphone while driving, I asked him what life was like before digital electonics. Jean replied: (in perfect english, tho’ he professes not to speak it) “It was a different world.”
Jean and Chantal have three daughters: The (non-identical) twins : Elise and Joanna, and Maroussia , the youngest. She is the only one active in the family business. And will eventually be the “Chef” of Domaines Tatin. Elise is an incredible painter and art professor. Joanna, inheriting her Mother’s talent, is an equally incredible musician (accordian) and vocalist.
But wait – there’s more! Elise and Joanna speak three languages. And Maroussia four. International enough for ya?
The night before my departure, after my “overnite” at Chez Tatin had been mutually extended several days, Jean enquired about my route. He then phoned a fellow wino 50kms (a days ride) down the road, who was also up for a visit from the exotic stranger from the far away lands.
You’re beginning to see why this guy is such a treasure. Aren’t you?
Part Three – Next Time
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
Famous French Pie – Part One
The French Country Travel Life Pie is uniquely French. That being said, it doesn’t, at least in the incarnations of which I’m aware, have any wine, or exotic flavored spirits within.
Although it can be made with pears, peaches, pineapple, or even (not to DA BG’s taste!) tomatoes, this thoroughly French dessert is usually made with apples. Which are caramelized in butter and sugar before baking.
The closest (perhaps only?) non-French relative of this froggie delicacy is the pineapple upside down cake. And if you saw this famous French creation, that’s probably what you’d mistake it for. Because the “Tart Tatin” is an apple upside down cake.
While not obscured in the mists of time, like most culinary creations, there are different accounts of exactly who the original creators were. The most widely accepted “Historical reality” is that the Tart Tatin was created accidently by one of two sisters who ran a small Hotel south of Paris. Their family name? – Tatin.
Regardless of the accuracy of it’s origins, the “Tart Tatin” Is a classic in the French culinary repetoire.
My friend Jean Tatin, a descendant of those sisters, is also a classic. Not for his connection to the “family tart” or his fine wine. But for his Humanity. Jean Tatin is a Classic “human being.” Who just happens to be French.
It was raining the night I met Jean. Not heavily. But steadily. And the temperature and color of the sky confirmed that it wasn’t going to improve. Plus, it was getting seriously dark.I was in the flat farmlands of the Cher region. Just before the Loire bends to the right and turns toward Bourges. Farm country. No “single family dwellings.” Just another farm every five to 10 kilometers.
At one of these “few and far between” cow posts where I stopped to inform Ma and Pa that this could be their big (and only) chance to offer some DRY French hospitality to the exotic stranger from the far away lands, the friendly farmette graciously demured. But said that I would most probably find a warm(and dry) welcome at the next farm down the line.
Ten soggy minutes later, I was at the front door of a large, but (for that region) suprisingly large house. Definitely not from the same “been here for 200 years” mold of the neighbour farms.
My knock was answered quickly. With a relaxed smile. By a Man of my height. But, happily for him, with more “meat on his bones.” Jean Tatin.
Part Two – Next Time
p.s. in case you missed the video above – HERE’S THE LINK!
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
French Revolution 2019
(Authors Note: Hopefully this post will clarify the current state of affairs in France for my English readers.)
As you are well aware Paris, and all of France, is not very gay at the moment. Due to the fact that, like Louis 16th, President Emmanuel Macron as a revolution on his hands.
While the Bastille has not yet been stormed – the current revolutionaries have succeeded in defacing a National Monument(the Arc de Triomphe),paralyzing the economy by blocking transport, torching cars,smashing windows, vandalizing shops and businesses, leaving four dead, hundreds injured and over a thousand (so far) arrested.
These “freedom fighters” are largely working class French who are “mad as hell and not going to take it anymore. ” And the current “troubles” are the expression of their discontent.
They refer to themselves as the “Gilet Jaune” (gee-lay zoan) – “Yellow vests” – after the classic traffic safety vests they’ve adopted as their emblem.
The black irony here is that now anyone who sports said vest will instantly be branded as a “Gilet Jaune.”
Their movement began, and continues to be spread, via the internet. Which means the Gilet Jaunes have no leader. No single charismatic figure urging them on to greater disruptive/destructive glory.
Likewise – no cohesive platform or political agenda. They’re simply “against” everything the Government is doing and/or proposing.
Bottom Line: Anyone “mad as hell” can”be” a Gilet Jaune. All it takes is anger/rage and a yellow vest.
And therein lies “the rub.” Right wing thugs,anarchists and all variety of hooligans whose “raison d’etre” is smashing things up, put on a yellow vest and go to town.
The yellow vested ones will admit that their movement has been infiltrated/co-opted by these “casseurs”(literally “breakers”), and that, yes, they’re responsible for the violence. And, yes, it is sad/tragic, but it’s the price of getting the government’s attention.
Likewise their blockage of roads. Assuring that perishable foods will perish. Assuring that businesses from the corner boulangerie to the giant supermarket see their profits cut in half or more. Assuring that the elderly and special needs people won’t get the medicine and/or professional at home services they need.
To put the Gilet Jaunes response to these disruptions of the lives of their fellow citizens into popular language: “Tough titty.”
The concerns of the Gilet Jaunes are genuine. But they are not unique.Every Western Democracy has cracks in the system. Which people can and do fall through.
What the yellow clad crusaders fail to appreciate is that they have the good fortune to live in a country with one of the most progressive social programs in Europe. You pay nothing to visit the doctor or dentist. If you’re unemployed, there is not only “chommage”(unemployment benefits) but “RSA” – a program that pays you to retrain your work skills.
But the Gilet Jaunes main problem is not Emmanuel Macron. It is their inability to connect the dots between their actions and their objectives. The fact that you can’t improve an economic system by destroying it, is not on their radar.
To date their “manefestations” have created a bill of 4 million plus Euros. A Figure that does not include businesses large and small who went OUT of business, due to the yellow clad “patriots” blockage of roads.
As one French Newspaper demanded: “Who Will Pay?” The answer, sadly, is ALL the French People.
Another newspaper compared the Gilet Jaune “movement” to a house in need of repair, occupied by several renters.
When the landlord fails to respond to repair requests – the renters begin trashing the house.
This does get the landlords attention. He initiates some repairs, and suggests meeting, in the near future, to discuss further repairs.
The renters response – is to keep trashing the house.
By throwing the Gilet Jaunes a bone – in the form of scraping a proposed gas price increase, other economic appesements, and the promise of a National Dialogue, President Macron has not saited the beast’s appetite.
He has increased it. Now, the Gilet Jaunes are hungrier than ever. More determined. More empowered. More convinced of the “rightness” of their cause.
Imagine if the level of violence, defacing of National monuments,destruction of businesses, human injury,and economic paralysis that France has endured occurred in the USA.
What would the Government’s response be? You’re ahead of me, aren’t you? That’s Right. State of emergency. National Guard. Army. Suspension of civil liberties. Live ammunition.
Like Louis 16, President Macron hasn’t been paying attention. And for that, he will pay the price. In the next election. If not before.
But what he can, and should do, to ensure the welfare of the Nation he’s been entrusted with guiding, is to, as police commanders have pleaded, bring in the army. Give them, and police, authority to use deadly force when attacked. End road blockages. Take Control. Establish and maintain order.
Like Napolean, Emmanuel Macron is vastly outnumbered in this third French Revolution. And like Napolean, it will be his Waterloo.
But it needn’t, and shouldn’t be, a defeat for the French Nation.