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French Country Travel Life Village Encore – Part One
French Country Travel Life Village Encore is what you’re getting here. Due to my big mouth. Yes, I did shoot myself in the literary (travel-ary?) foot after my previous hilltopy posts, when I threatened “more about hilltop villages another time.”
The time, dear reader, has come. And although there are no shortage of possibilities, I’ve managed to narrow the “successful candiates” down to a manageable number. Let’s dive in, shall we?
Menerbes
As you will recall from my previous hilltop village scribblings, on the road to Coustellet, you had the choice of not continuing straight on, but turning right when you saw the appropriate sign. That sign reading “Menerbes.”This hilltop jewel rises out of the Vaucluse plain, with a 360° view of vineyards below.
Which lead Nostradamus to proclaim: “Menerbes floats on a sea of vines.” Sorry ta burst yer bubble Nosty, but these days Menerbes floats on a sea of tourism. (as you no doubt expected?) But that’s not a problem. Due to the fact that the village has only one “main drag” that progressively inches up from the road below. And virtually no parking.
Having only two resturants, the obligatory bar, and an Art gallery means you can “do” Menerbes in a few hours. And still have a “rich cultural experience.” Like? Well, you could gaze in awe at the former mansion of (one of) Picasso’s (more long term) mistresses – Dora Maar.
Herself an artist, encouraged by the P man hisself. Who did for a period of time reside there also. Today various arty types on the “summer workshop in France” circuit descend upon it.
If you continue up the hill past the Maar Mansion, you’ll pour out onto a village square with an imposing central tower. Here you’ll find one of the many amazing views of the Luberon mountains which ring the place. And a museum of wine. With a few bottles for sale (suprise, suprise.)
Menerbes landed on the “must see before you die” list of French attractions, largely due to the legendary English scribbler Peter Mayles. Who used to live there. Until he made the regrettable decision to ridicule some of the locals in his tomes, and (even more unwisely) use their real names. The result being that he was invited to “get outa dodge.” Which he did.
Last seen sequestered in Lourmarin on the other side of the Mountain. (BTW, one of the nicer places to be “sequestered.”)
Today, as a result of it’s location, History and International Attention, Menerbes, akin to many of it’s neighbours, is populated almost exclusively by the “deep pockets” of all Nationalities, and those of serve them. (hint : the shop-owners, etc.)
This fact,it’s location, history (not mention the lack of parking!) make Menerbes a stop well worth making.
And so it glows.
Part Two – Next time.
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
French Country Travel Life Wine Primer
This French Country Travel Life Wine Primer needs to start with what will be for some “etrangers” an “A HA” moment – the French are not arrogant. They’re proud. And one of their top (some – such as DA BG – would say -main) sources of pride, is their wine. Held in high esteem Internationally. Why? – because it’s regulated and protected to keep it at the top of the World’s “best drinking” list.
My winophile pals at suppitysup.com fill in the French Wine Quality details….
“You may have noticed “Appellation d’Origine Controlée” on the label of that nice bottle your friends brought to dinner. AOC is a classification that assures you that the wine you’re buying came from a specific town (e.g., Champagne) and accounts for a little over half of French wine production. Vin de Pays designates a specific region in France (about a third of French wine) and Vin de Table, from anywhere in France, makes up the remaining sixth. The take-away is, French wines are named for place, not varietal.
And the systems vary from place to place. Take Burgundy and Bordeaux (two areas of wines we tasted, see below). Bordeaux has a “château” system, established by Napoleon III. The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 ranks wines according to a château’s reputation, trading price and, originally, its wine’s quality. Best known are the top five (also called Premiers Crus): Château Lafite, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Haut-Brion, Mouton. On the other hand, Burgundy has a Grand Cru system. Think of a target with Grand Cru in the center, Premier Cru (or 1er Cru) in the next ring and Villages in the outer ring. Price, generally speaking, descends outward.
Fun facts from class 3:
“Château” (French for castle) means that there’s a wine making facility on the property. Not necessarily the turreted, mansard-roofed stone edifice you picture, could be a shed.
In the thirteenth century the Pope lived in Avignon, in the Southern Rhone. A wine was made especially for him, hence Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
In the seventeenth century Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc cross-pollinated in France and Cabernet Sauvignon was born.
Onto the tasting. Round One consisted of three whites and a red. The first was a 2011 Thomas-Labaille “Les Monts Damnés” Sancerre (French Sauvignon Blanc), $24. Almost water-white, clear, bright and quite dry, my first impression in both nose and palate was grass and green bell pepper (first time I actually “got” green pepper in wine). Even though our instructor said this wine has good “typicity” for a Sancerre, I was a bit underwhelmed.
Not so with the Riesling to follow (2010 Domaine Dirler-Cade Kessler Grand Cru), $35. Fuller in body and color, a lovely, overripe golden raisin and green apple aroma hints at the slightly sweeter and toasty taste toward the back of the tongue. Would be amazing with asalade niçoise.
The 2010 Domaine Marc Colin En Montceau 1er Cru (Chardonnay), $40, from Burgundy was like a liquid apple pie – red apple, spice and sweet wood (vanilla) aroma followed by a palate of apples, pears and a soupçon of alcohol. Then a somewhat timid, though not at all inexpensive ($50) Burgundy Pinot Noir: Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier Clos des Fourches from Nuit-Saint-Georges. A pretty garnet color, offering a light intensity of red cherry aroma with a delicate floral note. Didn’t seem like a lot of bang for the buck, especially considering the “grippy” tannins.
Round Two began with my favorite wine of the evening: 2009 Chateau Potensac Delon from Medoc (Bordeaux), $35. A purply-blue semi-opaque appearance gave way to ripe black cherries, some plum and a lick of licorice in the nose. The palate had a bit of heat to it, with the ripe fruit flavor nicely balanced. Next came a Malbec from Cahors, a 2009 LIonel Osmin & Cie, $15.The most interesting thing about this wine was the huge difference in aroma between still (blackberry) and swirled (cocoa).
A very pretty rosé followed, Le Galantin from Bandol (Southern Rhone), $17. Slightly sweeter than the last wine, which explains why we tasted a lighter after a darker wine. My first big disagreement with the instructor occured here, I offered “lychee and kumquat” on the nose, and got “no” as a response. How different is that from orange peel? Isn’t it all subjective?
I didn’t let this interfere with my enjoyment of the final wine, a 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape by Domaine de Monpertuis, $37. Gorgeous garnet-ruby in appearance with core notes of black cherry and highlights of spice. The palate provided a surprising (to me) addition of strawberry jam and white pepper.
Read more HERE.
and that’s “30” for this French Country Travel Life Wine Primer!
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part Three
French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part Three may increase your enjoyment if you first check out PART ONE and PART TWO. (but, hey…if you’re a risk taker…..)
When you finally descend the wondering heights of Lacoste, turn right on RN 100, and enjoy the scenery. But not for too long. Because in no less than 5 to 10 driving minutes, you’ll be seeing a sign for “Bonnieux.” (she being the last of our hilltop stops.)
Go slowly along this here byway, and if it’s late June or early July, look left and you’ll see a half dozen bing cherry trees. These are “anybody’s tree’s.” As in no designated owner. So, feel free to sample the “fruits of the land.” (keeping in mind what too many cherries can do!)
200 or so metres past the trees, a rustic building partially submerged in greenery will emerge . As you turn right, you’ll see it’s a classic “in-the-middle-of-nowhere” French Ma and Pa Cafe, Coffee Shop and Dry Cleaners. (Actually, they may not be offering this service anymore. but, hey – never hurts to ask – right?)
Amazingly, I’ve never eaten there. Even more amazing considering I lived in the gite exactly next door for a winter. So – now it’s your chance. (p.s. the gite is now a private residence.)
Across from the cafe/ancient Gite, a concrete confirmation(and aren’t those the best kind?) that kitsch is universal. An old train station has been converted into mutiple arts n’ crafty …dare we call them “boutiques?” Hey – why not!
After thrilling to these down home country attractions, it’s time to drink in more of the Luberon National Park’s wonders. And, happily, this wonder is just down the road. And you can get a (small) drink there. for FREE! Yes, dear reader, yet another “Cave Co-operative!” She belonging to Bonnieux, where you will next be adventuring.
By now, you, a cave co-operative veteran of (at least) Coustellet and Lumiere need no instruction, prompting or skill testing questions to know what to do!
After doing what needs to be done and gaining an enhanced appreciation for the Luberon’s liquid treasures, the road will, as you have no doubt anticipated, begin to make like yeast. And soon the village of Bonnieux will be looming medium large ahead.
Bonnieux, like it’s hilltop cousins “dates back to Roman times.” So, if you’re inclined to wander about (you are – right?) you’ll find no shortage of evidence of the passing of the ancient conquerers. The “lil’ B” (pop – about 1500) also sports a cedar forest. Them thar trees being imported from North Africa during the Napoleonic era.
You’ll remember in Part One of this riveting saga I said the “Gordes is the most celebrated of the hilltop villages.” I also promised “more on Gordes later.”
OK – now is “later.” First of all, to get there, you’ll need to go all the way back to your starting point. – Coustellet. The crossroads village. And at that intersection (there’s only one – so no confusion) turn Right. The road gradually winds upward, through rocky, sagebrushy scenery . The village, which will come into view ahead, and to the right, is definitely “imposing.” With a capital “I.”
Sadly, due to the fact it’s in every “most-beautiful-villages-in-france-you-must-see-or-be-a-total-loser” guidebook, the prices are equally imposing. Unless, of course you’re already good with dropping 6 euro ( about $7.80 U.S.) for a postage stamp cuppa joe.
Now, I’m not saying give Gordes a miss. DA BG’s advice is: 1) Visit off-season (middle of May/last week September 2) pack a lunch 3) bring something wonderful from your cave co-operative adventures.
More hilltop villages another time – but this should get you started on your French Country Travel Life Village Tour – n’est ce pas?
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
