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French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part Two
The French Country Travel Life Village Tour continues – for those informed folks who’ve previously thrilled to PART ONE.
Exiting Lumiere’s fabgroovy cave co-op, our direction is left (east) past (or stopping at?) the superette on the right. The last (yes, I must say it) “rayon” of Lumiere is a ginormous (private, methinks) residence on your left. (Nice lawn!)
Continuing straight ahead after not too many kms. of super scenery, you’ll see a road to your right signposted (hopefully) “Lacoste” (no, this is NOT where they make those shirts!)
The seems-to-go-on forever plain, will in fact, not. Soon you will be curving upward, ascending to the top o’ this here hilltop cluster of History.
Lacoste is noteable for (at least) two things. One, the Chateau of the Marquis de Sade.
Two – the annual Summer festival of Classical music. Presented by Pierre Cardin. (yes – THAT Pierre Cardin!) Who also happens to the owner of the Chateau of the King of “kinky love.” (and Maxim’s in Paris. And God knows what else)
While there are other hilltop villages that are as old/historic/interesting as Lacoste, it is only in this one will you find an honest to gosh certified prescence of Americana. This being the “Savannah College of Art.” Yes Savannah as in “Georgia” – The USA (not the ruskie) kind.
It was on my first exploration of Lacoste that I stumbled on this (for me) cultural oddity. Seeking directions from friendly locals (and aren’t those the best kind?) and without looking at the plaque above the door, I knocked.
The response from within confirmed that these folks were , like DA BG, exotic strangers from the far away lands.
When a Church does not grow up, it remains a “Chapel.” Lacoste has one. Closed 
the day I passed. But you will probably have better luck.
While other scribblers in this genre might use the usual vapid adjectives to describe it (“charming”, “authentic”, etc.) Lacoste is, like it’s hilltoppy neighbours, a collection of dwellings of all styles/ages , with panoramic views and whatever History has gone down. Full stop.
Ok – I know the Chateau of the Marquis de Sade DOES sound like a “must see”. but , trust DA BG here, it’s truly(to almost coin a pun) – SAD. The reason? Extensive “renovation”. The result of grafting “improvements” onto original walls makes the kinky love King’s palace the archetictural equivalent of an identikit photo assembled by a drunk.
And that’s “”30” for part two of our French Country Travel Life Village Tour.
Part Three – Next time!
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part One
French Country Travel Life Village Tour. That’s what yer ‘ole pal DA BG, famous froggie lover is gonna take ya on today. Not just ANY tour mind you. But a tour from my personal rolodex of fab, gear, groovy, way out, wild and wacky experiences.
You dear reader, without luggage, without being strip searched by entry level neanderthals, without being subjected to skill testing questions are about to virtually voyage through The Luberon National Park in the South of France, and it’s lesser known hilltop villages. Now, is that high cotton or what?
The excursion of a lifetime begins in the crossroads vilage of Coustellet. How to get there? Regardless of how you arrive in la Belle France, the best reference point is Avignon. She of the famous Festival, Palace of the ancient popes, yada,yada,yada. Already detailed to death by a zillon guidebooks. Can’t imagine that my uber-scribbler pal, Rick Steves hasn’t been all over it like a cheap suit.
It is here, after arriving by whatever means, that you will (a) go east on RN 100, or (b) follow the signs (and the Durance river) to the one-attraction town of Cavaillon. (that attraction is the famous..at least hereabouts..”melon du Cavaillon”) Leaving Cavaillon , the sign you’re looking for is “Gordes”.
You will eventually pass a succession of tiny hamlets (les Taillades, Robion, etc) After Robion the landscape is all plains with the Luberon range in the distance.
After your last curve, about 5 car minutes after Robion, the road becomes as straight as a spinster’s corset. Looming ahead, you’ll see a collection of mud huts. (ok – just wanted to see if you were paying attention) That’s Coustellet.
The absolute first building you’ll pass (on your right), is the one you want to turn into. This is the local “Cave Co-operative.” Here, if you were smart enough to pack an empty 3 litre container – you can buy 3 litres of very reasonable wine for less than 2 euros@litre. Otherwise, they will have various bottled alternatives. One of the best treasures is a “cuvee.” Why? Because this is a wine “assembled” from the best fruit available. Without regard for the AOC designation. Bottom line: no “cuvee” of any year from the same cave co-op will ever be the same. Best case scenario: but 3 litres and a cuvee.(or 2)
Ok…exiting the cave…..back to the main drag…..onward 50 ft….and you’re at the intersection. Left is west – back to Avignon, et al. Straight is on to Gordes. The most celebrated of all hilltop villages. (more on Gordes later.) You want to go right, on RN 100. In 20 seconds, you’ll pass the rest of Coustellet. (There are two boulangeries opposite each other just before you exit….both worth sampling. the fanciest – ie – things you love but shouldn’t eat – on the left)
Once you pass the gas station on your left….Coustellet , like the one that got away, is History. If you’ve ever been to Montana, the forthcoming countryside, may give you a deja vu. flat. Mountains in the distance. Acres of lavender to be seen/smelled in season. (You remember the famous wild Montana Lavender don’t you?)
Eventually your byway will reach higher elevations. You’ll be seeing more trees and general “wild ” nature. Rocky outcroppings. A ruined cabin or three. Farmer type folks below .
The first village you’ll come to, “Lumiere” isn’t fantasically well marked. (All too common everywhere here, sigh!) So – watch for buildings to your left, as you descend from the giddy heights. Take that first left. You are now in “Lumiere.”
Houses and whatnot left – Right, the ubiquitous bar, an “institute”/retreat of some sort, and the local superette. ON GUARD – just before the superette, on your left you’ll find…..guess what?……right! Another Cave Co-operative! Also offering AOC Luberon and Ventoux wines. Plus it’s own liquid “assemblages.” And glory gee to beezis…they will allow you to purchase by the litre!
Don’t leave without a few bottled “souvenirs.” They’re not “better” than Coustellet. Just “different.” As in “viva la difference!”
Part Two of the French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Next time.
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
Famous French Pie – Part Four
This Famous French Pie – Part Four is not the end of the saga. But, probably close to it. More bang for your buck can be had by first thrilling to the spine-tingling, hair raising, credibility assaulting PARTS One, Two, and Three.
Here in France, someone who’s not a vigneron is known as an Amateur du Vin.” Not “Expert du Vin” or “Vin Fou.” (Wine crazy.) Somewhat curious, n’est ce pas? Because back in my exotic homeland,“amateur” means someone who’s not very good at whatever he/she/it wants to be good at.
This is definitely not the case with the French “amateur’s du Vin” of my acquaintence. And it’s equally not the vibe I get generally from my wine related activities.
You might be thinking (and I’ll understand if you are) that “Amateur du Vin” is simply French for “Wine Snob.” Nothing could be further from the truth.(with the obvious exception of politicans, bien sur) The French A.D.V’s I’ve clinked glasses with are extremely knowledgeable about and interested in wines from all over. Not just their home turf.
And unlike the Wine Snob, who only drinks rare, spendy vintages, and whose greatest pleasure is NOT the Wine, but knowing that YOU KNOW just how rare and spendy his wine is – the A.D.V. is interested in the wine’s quality and origin. Not it’s price.
Case in point: I have a Doctor friend who could buy most any wine that appealed. And although he does have a well-stocked “cave” – his greatest thrill is discovering a great wine (often in the supermarket close-out bins) for less than five euros.No one has ever accused me of being a Wine Snob.
Nor do I, in spite of my obvious affection for fermented grape juice, consider myself an “A.D.V.” However I’ve had one (very brief) moment when my “wine star” blazed across the Wine heavens. Annointing my (faux) expertise light years beyond yer average A.D.V.
And, as you might have guessed, it was a Jean Tatin related adventure.
One or Two wednesdays a month, all the vignerons of the wine co-op to which Jean belongs, gather for a tasting. A private one. Needless to say, with all these expert and experienced palettes in attendance, this is no ordinary slurping wine event.
In reality, it’s a gourmet five course meal with five different wines. (tiny sips, bien sur.) Here’s why: Each tasting has a theme. Decided upon by the vigneron who’s presenting the goodies. ie – wines of the Loire, Wines of Provence, etc. So, where does the grub come in, you’re wondering – right? Elementary my dear winestub.
The presenting vignernon also selects authentic (as in from the place, not the supermarket)local munchies that traditionally accompany each of the wines.
And my 15 seconds of Wine Expertise Fame?
That’s comin’atcha next time.
But..until then...here’s a little TASTE.
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
