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French Wine Adventure
A French Wine Adventure is one of the best reasons to visit here. Not the only one bien sur, but certainly, at least in my book “first among equals.” The other equals being food, natural beauty, History, and that other essential “big H” – Hospitality.
As I ranted previously IN THIS POST, one of the great “Treasures Of France” – is the existence of “Cave Co-operatives.” These assocations of local growers,happily ubiquitous in this fair land, give wine lovers the rarest of treats. The chance to taste (and, bien sur, BUY!) great wine that is not regulated by the official A.O.C. system.
Thus under no obligation to restrict their wines to specified varities/quantities, the Cave Co-operative can choose (and blend if it so desires) the best grapes. Giving the wine lover a truly unique French Wine Adventure. A wine that, although not “A.O.C” – truly is a reflection of the place from which it comes. (“Terroir” is how the French describe it.) I just call it “Great Value!”
Another flavor of Adventure in discovering French Wine is to actually join the locals in picking those grapes. As I detailed in THIS POST, you’ll not only meet the French locals, but the “locals” from all over Europe who travel to participate in this yearly French Wine ritual. Be prepared to bend over a lot, eat a lot, and, naturally, drink a lot !
The third option is , to be slightly redundant, my “first among equals.” Gliding down the French Country backroads. Caressed by sunshine(often) and soft breezes. (“le mistral” notwithstanding) Pausing at every possibility of a new discovery. However tiny and fleeting.
Sometimes, I even film my French Wine Adventure to share it with you.
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Irish Gourmet Chows Down In France
Irish Gourmet Chows Down In France. Yes, dear reader, a shocking headline to say the least. What connection you may well ask does Irish food have with anything gourmet?
The short, and honest answer, is, bien sur, none. But since my last post dealt with an Irishman’s contribution to the French Cognac industy, I thought it might be groovy, fab, far out, wild, weird, wacky, gear, cool, sweet, and maybe even instructive to share the ramblings of an Irish Resturant reviewer chowing down in France.
A gentlemen with the very un-Irish name of Paolo Tullio.
His gastromic ramblings appeared in – (what else?) – The Irish Edition of the UK ‘s Independant:
“As an Irish restaurant reviewer, getting to eat in great French restaurants is important for me, as these are the restaurants that set world standards.
It’s a way for me to calibrate my palate, so that I have a touchstone for judging meals here. It’s hugely expensive, but as an occasional exercise it can be excused.
We started our three-day odyssey with a meal in one of the great French restaurants, Le Louis XV in Monaco. This is Alain Ducasse’s flagship restaurant and is the holder of three Michelin stars.
It’s in the Hotel de Paris, which is opposite Monte Carlo’s famous casino. It’s probably true to say that this little corner of Monaco is the most architecturally pleasing part of this tiny state.
Turn right after entering the ornate, Baroque lobby of the hotel and you find the entrance to Le Louis XV. It’s a huge dining room, perhaps 30ft high, decorated with vast amounts of gilt.
Huge pilasters faced in banded agate and topped in Ionic capitols line the walls, Baccarat chandeliers and sconces light the room,
Arcadian murals delight the eye and a small army of waiters dance attendance.
The first thing you notice, other than the splendour of the room, is the immaculate tailoring of the waiters’ suits, making your own look like a poor man’s hand-me-down.
A vast epergne, perhaps three-metres high, dominates the middle of the room, serving as a centrepiece and a rallying point for the trolleys. There are a lot of trolleys, all built as though to last for centuries, made out of mahogany and brass.
The first one you meet is the bread trolley, which resembles a bakery shop on wheels. There are maybe 20 different breads to choose from in a bewildering variety of shapes and grains.
Not being the host, I got a guest menu — that’s one with no prices — but I know that most dishes cost about €90.
With the menus came the champagne trolley, which offered a large choice of champagnes by the glass to start the meal. My two pals had a glass each, one of the Bollinger Grande Annee 2002, and one of the Taittinger rosé 2004.
From the menu we chose the Provençal starter plate, scallops, and truffle gnocchi for starters, and then my friends ordered the duck — which is a dish for two — while I ordered the Pyrenean lamb.
For our wines we ordered the Chateau de Bellet, which is a red wine made near Nice, and a Bandol, Chateau Pibarnon, a crisp white made from the Rolle grape, known in Italy as the Vermentino.
I won’t describe the food in detail, but I will say that each dish was consummately well done.
They weren’t mean with the truffles, either — a waiter grated an entire black truffle on to my dish of gnocchi.
I liked the way the duck was served for the main course. It arrived in a covered marmite and it was deftly dismembered at the table by the waiter, who then served the breast and took away the legs, as they do in the Tour d’Argent, only to return with them a little while later de-boned and served in a small ramekin.
We didn’t have a dessert, just a little cheese, which also came on a trolley. It wasn’t the last trolley, either, as we also wanted one camomile and sage tea.
There’s another trolley that looks like a shrubbery on wheels, where maybe 30 different herbs are stacked in pots. The tea is made at the table, snipping the relevant herbs into a teapot and then adding the boiling water.
The closest we got to a dessert was dessert wine — a glass of Sauternes 2001 and a glass of Malvasia di Lipari 2006, a wine I last had on the island of Lipari itself.”
Bottom Line : Anyone can rise to Gourmetdom when presented with the right grub.
Thrill to more of Mr. Tullio’s gastronomic adventures HERE.
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French Cognac From Ireland
French Cognac From Ireland. Yes, dear reader, it’s true. The fact that Cognac, while not from Ireland, owes it’s fame, popularity and world-wide notariety to Ireland. Specifically to Blarney land’s Richard Hennessy who left the Emerald Isle to join the army of Louis XV.
He was stationed in the southwestern town of…(you’re ahead of me already aren’t you?)….Cognac.
Naturally, appreciating all things alcoholic, he sent some of the local brew back home to his buds.
Soon after, Mr. Hennessey had a thriving business. Which continues to this day. Sadly, without him. Except(pun intended) “in spirit.”
More of the Hennessey Cognac connection from Reuter’s Barbara Lewis:
“For visitors to the region, discovering the secrets of its famous double-distilled spirit aged in oak casks is essential to the Cognac experience, but there are other charms.
Following are some tips from a correspondent with local knowledge.
DAY ONE
From Paris, Cognac is a roughly three-hour train journey via Angouleme, around 20 miles from Cognac. You might want to hire a car either from Angouleme, to cut out the slow-train section, or on arrival in Cognac.
From Cognac station, it’s a brisk walk or a short drive to the old town centre.
10:30 a.m. – Drop off your bags and restore yourself with a coffee and perhaps a “pain au chocolate”, known as a “chocolatine” in the Cognacais strain of French.
The Cognacais themselves are affectionately nicknamed cagouillards after the juicy snails that patrol the vineyards.
The main square Place Francois I, named after the French Renaissance king born in Cognac, has a cluster of cafes. It also houses the grand, newly restored Hotel Francois I and a statue of the mighty monarch on horseback.
11 a.m. – Walk down the cobbled streets to the sleepy Charente, the river once used to ship Cognac. Some of the main cognac houses, Hennessy included, line the banks.
Take your pick of which one or ones you would like to visit.
Hennessy has a state-of-the-art visitor centre and throws in a short boat trip, Remy Martin offers a train ride and Otard is housed in the chateau, where Francois I was born at the end of the 15th-century.
All give seductive accounts of the rich history and romance woven around one of France’s most prized products.
France’s luxury conglomerates now dominate ownership, but generations after they were founded, members of the original families still work in the cognac houses and are proud, aristocratic ambassadors of their brands.
They can narrate how “appellation controlee” cognac, which according to strict French laws, can only be produced from the Cognac growing area, owes its taste to the “terroir” and to age-old traditions.
The freshly harvested grapes are distilled not once, but twice in gleaming copper alembics to extract the very soul of the wine – “eau-de-vie” (water of life).
This clear, intensely alcoholic spirit is then aged for long years – which lowers the alcoholic degree, gives flavor and the distinctive cognac color.
Aged eau-de-vie can be sold as vintage cognacs. More usually, a selection is blended by the “maitre de chai”, or chief-taster, the most revered of the cognac house employees.
The oldest and most valuable eaux-de-vie are locked away in an area of the cellars referred to as the “paradis” or paradise.
As they age, heady fumes escape, which the Cognacais call “la part des anges” (the angels’ share). In the hot summer months, the smell hangs heavy in the air.
Tours, which can be booked in advance, end with a degustation (tasting) and a trip to the gift shop, where the finest, most beautifully packaged cognacs sell for hundreds of euros.
1 p.m. – Lunch options include a picnic on the river bank or a snack in one of the many cafes along the cobbled streets.
2 p.m. – As you mooch around, you might take a look at Saint Leger church, at the junction of the two main pedestrian streets. Dating back to the 12th century, it is in the Romanesque style characteristic of the region, and has a massive, arched doorway.
3 p.m. – Drive or take the train to Saintes to discover a refreshingly different town. If Cognac is about old money, discretion and let’s face it, a certain snobbery, Saintes has a more diverse, younger vibe, but, founded by the Romans, has ancient credentials.
Roman remains are scattered near the river and at the top of the town is a spectacular Roman amphitheatre.
6 p.m. – Head back to Cognac in time for an aperitif. Cognac houses have heavily promoted cognac, not just as the classic digestif, but as an aperitif, served with tonic water and ice. If that’s too shocking, pineau des Charentes, made by adding grape juice to eau-de-vie is an alternative.
8 p.m. – Cognac’s restaurants range from pizzerias to top-end dining. Regional specialties include chevre chaud (goat’s cheese on toast) and mouclade, mussels cooked in a creamy, wine sauce. An affordable option is La Courtine in the Parc Francois I, popular with locals. For balmy evenings, it has a terrace.”
Bottom Line: France owes more than it knows to the Irish!
Read more HERE.
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